THE BYGONE ART OF KOYYALAGUDEM

In the small town named Koyyalagudem of Andhra Pradesh state, the artisans still weave ikkat handlooms. This study is about the renowned weave, Telia Rumal which was accorded with Geographical indication (GI). Telia which means Tel. Each yarn is treated with castor oil, warp and wefts dyed separately and then weaved together. This time-consuming process makes this handloom expensive. This gem was discovered during the Nizams Era itself, where this piece of fabric was first used just as turbans and lungis, but then was encouraged to be weaved into sarees too. Unfortunately, this masterpiece of south is dying. There are only a handful weavers who continue to practice this intricate weaving art. My article is going to focus on the history, i.e. how Telia Rumal was encouraged, the technique which makes it distinctive from other weaved handloom and the current issues faced by the weavers and artisans.

 

Keywords: Telia Rumal, Koyyalagudem, Double-Ikkat, Dyeing, Handloom.


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